Where there is water, there is -- (1)
Putting a robe around the forest -- the practice of tree ordination is used in Mae Kha Poo Village in Chiangmai to raise awareness of the importance of conserving natural watersheds.
Almost too gentle to notice, weaving underfoot, is a stream that passes through the forest. What may seem like an incidental trickle is actually part of an important watershed for the Pakak’yaw village of Mae Kha Poo, in the mountains of Samoeng, Chiangmai.
High in the mountains, water - for drinking, for growing food - comes from the surrounding forests. They are the natural watersheds that create rain, trap moisture in vegetation, form small ponds through the movement of animals, and recharge groundwater, forming a crucial part of a natural hydrological cycle that spans the mountains to the skies and seas.
“Water is life” - a refrain that we often hear in conversations with communities in the hills. Yet this is true not just for them but also for us, living in the foothills and cities, far from these fundamental sources of water. We are just as distanced from the generous, life-giving rhythm of these mountain streams, as we are from the signs of drought and water insecurity that have been worsening in recent years.
We attended a forest ordination ceremony in this shaded valley. The practice of tying monks’ robes around trees started in Thailand in the 1980s and ‘90s as part of protests against environmentally-destructive commercial activities, such as logging and pipeline construction. Wrapping sacred orange and red fabrics around tree trunks is simple, but carries weight. Its significance - tying together the Thai spiritual, Buddhist identity, with the ecological realities of forest conservation. The ordination of trees serves to raise awareness of how forests and watersheds are innately connected to human lives.
The event was initiated by the community itself, and the valley chosen because of its location - part of a glade sheltering this humble stream. While some of the trees in the periphery have been felled for building local houses, village leaders were conscious that the trees nearest the stream had to be preserved. Since they protect their precious water source, they too must be kept intact.
While the event was largely symbolic, the presence of 30-odd villagers, local leaders, and activists from neighbouring districts made it meaningful. The Pakak’yaw people have a long-standing connection to the forest, both spiritually and tangibly. Many communities maintain a practice of preserving the ecosystems around them, as part of sustaining their own way of life. (I write about this also here.)
There are many actions we can take to increase access to water, in the face of climate change and an increasingly unpredictable water supply globally. Planting more forests and finding ways to make our existing water supply usable are crucial. But keeping nature as it is, leaving these dense woods be, and supporting the communities that steward them - this may seem remote and maybe even inert, but it is one of the most important things we can do to keep the water flowing.
The speeches wind down and the group breaks up, wandering away from the clearing. We follow a friend along a narrow path that follows the curve of the stream. I ask - how do you know which trees to ordain? There’s no criteria, he says. Just pick one you like - it’s the trees in this area that we’re trying to preserve.
Over lunch, we eat rice wrapped in banana leaves, and a stew made from local chicken. They tell us to eat more - once we head back down, there won’t be a chance to eat village food any more. The air is crisp and golden as the last remnants of winter sift through into a hot summer. There is water now, there are trees now, and we sit among the fallen leaves and pine needles; curl our legs over thick tangles of roots; put our backs to peeling bark. We share food, and enjoy the dappled day.
References:
https://daily.jstor.org/why-some-buddhist-monks-ordain-trees/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/forested-watersheds
The activities described in this essay are part of the SPHERE (Sustainable Project for Health, Ecosystem Restoration, and Education) 8 Project to advance social and environmental objectives in Northern Thailand. The project is generously supported by Goh Foundation Singapore.